hardwood faq

GENERAL QUESTIONS

Q: Why hardwood floors?
A: Hardwood floors are durable, long lasting and beautiful. The natural colors and patterns found in natural wood create a comfortable and inviting living environment.

Q: Is it true that hardwood floors provide a cleaner home environment?
A: Absolutely. Carpeting attracts and holds many allergenic spores, dust mites, bacteria, fungi, animal dander and other unhealthy microbes. These disturbing irritants are dispersed every time you vacuum.

Q: How long do hardwood floors last?
A: When properly maintained, hardwood floors can last a lifetime. The average carpet needs to be replaced every 10 to 12 years.

Q: What is the most popular hardwood used in flooring?
A: Red Oak is the most preferred hardwood for use in homes. Maple is the number one choice for gymnasiums, basketball courts, dance floors and other commercial applications. Maple is harder than oak, and can stand up better in commercial use.

MAINTENANCE QUESTIONS

Q: I heard humidity levels need to be controlled for hardwood floors, is that true?
A: Humidity in your home should be kept at approximately 45%. An extremely dry house during the heating season will cause flooring to shrink, which will create linear cracks between the flooring slats. On the other hand too much humidity will cause the flooring to swell and could cause the boards to cup or crown.

Q: My hardwood floors are lackluster, and look like they need a face lift. Should I attempt to renovate them myself?
A: We recommend our professional floor refurbishers. We have all the equipment and experience to do the job efficiently and correctly the first time. Plus, we guarantee the results.

INSTALLATION QUESTIONS

Q: What is the lead time for scheduling a floor refinishing or installation?
A: Generally from 1 to 3 weeks out depending on the job. Consult our office for a more precise time.

Q: How long does a hardwood floor installation take?
A: We generally visit your site to give you an accurate time and cost estimate for hardwood floor installations.

Q: How long does the sanding/finishing process take?
A: Normally sanding & finishing is a three day process, but allow four in case the finish isn't dry from one day to the next, depending upon weather conditions.

Q: How much dust is created by the sanding process?
A: There will be a fine film in the sanded areas. To keep dust from penetrating other areas of your home, we recommend applying plastic to doorways using 3M blue tape and thin plastic film. The plastic and 3M blue tape is available at your local hardware or home supply store.

Q: How long does it take for the floor to dry after each surface coat is applied?
A: A coat of oil base poly takes 8-12 hours to cure - a coat of water base poly takes 4-6 hours to dry.

Q: What temperature should I keep my home during the finishing process?
A: 68 to 72 degrees Fahrenheit is ideal, if your home is too hot or too cold, it could cause the finish to dry incorrectly and delay the job.

Q: When can I move furniture back?
A: Recommended 24 hours after the final coat is applied (with protective felts under all furniture). Large area rugs need to be kept off the floor for the first 30 days. Use a breathable perforated rubber pad under rugs.

Q: Will my floor be shiny?
A: You have a choice of a satin, semi-gloss or high gloss finish for your floor.

Q: Do you move furniture or appliances?
A: No, due to liability concerns that is an option left to the homeowner.

Q: Can I stay in my home during the floor sanding process?
A: Yes, however access to the floors will be restricted because of the need for a certain amount of drying time each day.

Q: What time will the refinishing crews start each day?
A: Generally most installations or refinishing jobs are started between 8:30 and 9:00 AM. Smaller jobs are sometimes started in the afternoon. The application of polyurethane varied from day to day depending on the finishing crew's route, and will be decided at that time.

Simple Steps for Maintaining Hardwood Floors:

For the first two weeks after application, use your floors with care.
We recommend that no furniture be put into the room for two or three days.
No carpets or water should be used on floors during this first two-week period.
To help the floors cure faster, open windows or fan ventilate to provide air circulation

Cleaning

Vacuum or use an untreated dust mop on your floors regularly. This will keep the sand and grit off your floor that may cause premature wear.
Remove spills promptly. Use soft cotton cloth and BonaKemi Hardwood Floor Cleaner to clean wet spills. BonaKemi is available at Carter Wood Floors.

Floor Protectors

Install proper protectors on "feet" of furniture. Felt protectors allow chairs to move easily without scuffing. Clean and replace felt as needed.
Place mats at exterior doors to trap sand and grit from incoming traffic.
Use area rugs in pivot areas: at end of steps, near doorways, etc. All rugs should allow floors to breathe. For this reason avoid rubber-backed or other non-ventilated rugs.

Recoating

Recoating is preventative maintenance. When the floor begins to show wear it is time to recoat. Don't wait until the finish has worn off and dirt and spills begin to penetrate the wood. If this happens, sanding to the bare wood will be required.

Remember, polyurethane cannot be applied over wax and other household cleaners.

When it's time to recoat, call us.

What To Avoid For Your Floors:

Avoid High Heels. They can severely damage the surface of any floor covering. Always keep heel caps in good repair.
Never Drag Furniture. Pushing, pulling, or dragging heavy furniture can cause severe damage. Always lift when possible and use floor protectors.
Never Wax . If wax is applied, it will not be possible to recoat. Use of oil soap or other household cleaners is not recommended. These products can dull the finish and make future cleaning and refurbishing difficult.
Never Damp Mop . Just wipe according to BonaKemi Hardwood Floor Cleaner label directions. Repeated mopping will wear the finish down prematurely.

"Solid Wood" vs. "All Wood"

"Solid wood" means that each exposed part is made of pieces of genuine hardwood and nothing else. For large surfaces, strips or boards are bonded with stronger-than-wood glue and other wood joinery techniques.

Some alternatives are hardwood veneers--thin slices of wood bonded to composite boards or plywood. This type of construction is sometimes described as "all wood."

In addition, artificial laminate surfaces of plastic, foil or paper often are printed with photographs of wood grain patterns and bonded to composites such as particle board or medium density fiberboard. Remember the terms "oak, maple and cherry finish" may simply refer to the color or the photographic reproduction of the wood's grain – it does not necessarily mean it is the authentic, natural hardwood.

If you're not sure whether the item is solid hardwood or an imitation, examine the construction.

Wood flooring is available in a number of sizes and make-ups, each offering its own distinct advantages. People are often surprised by the limitless choices that wood flooring affords them. Today's wood flooring is right for virtually every room. Choosing the right kind and style of wood flooring is not hard if you are familiar with several industry terms.

Choice #1: Unfinished wood flooring:

Unfinished flooring is a product that must be job-site sanded and finished after installation.

Choice #2: Pre-finished wood flooring:

Pre-finished flooring is factory sanded and finished flooring that only needs installation.

Choice #3: Solid wood flooring:

Solid wood flooring is completely lumber. It is available in unfinished and pre-finished. Solid wood flooring is produced in:

Strip - in thickness of 5/16" to 3/4" in widths of 1 1/2, 2" and 2 1/4"
Plank - in thick nesses of 1/2" or 3/4" and widths of 3" to 8"
Parquet - geometrical patterns composed of individual wood slats held in place by mechanical fastening or an adhesive

Choice #4: Engineered wood flooring:

Laminate wood flooring is produced by bonding layers of veneer and lumber with an adhesive. Laminate wood flooring is available in pre-finished and unfinished. These products are more dimensionally stable and are ideal for glue-down installation or float-in installation above grade, on grade or below grade, including basements and humid climates. Laminate wood flooring is produced in:

Strip - thick nesses of 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" and in widths of 2" and 2 1/4"
Plank - thick nesses of 5/16", 3/8", 1/2" or 5/8" and in widths of 3" to 8"
Parquet - one-piece wood tile available in 9" x 9" or 8" x 8" and other patterns

Choice #5: Acrylic impregnated wood flooring:

Acrylic impregnated is a pre-finished wood flooring product. Through a high-pressure treatment, acrylic and color are forced into the pores throughout the thickness of the wood. The "finish" is inside the wood, creating an extremely hard surface. These floors are highly resistant to abrasion and moisture and appeal most often to commercial customers but are also used residentially. Acrylic impregnated floors are available in the same styles as laminate floors.

Choice #6: Synthetic plastic laminates:

Usually 1/2 inch thick, plastic laminate flooring consists of a fiberboard center wrapped in top and bottom layers of high-pressure laminate -- a tougher version of the same material used in many kitchen countertops. These floors cannot be sanded or refinished and must be removed when they wear out. They usually come with 10- or 15-year manufacturer warranties against fading, stains and wear. Look closely at an entire laminate floor, and you'll see that the faux "wood grain" pattern repeats itself. That's because laminate flooring is actually a photograph of real wood stuck to a wood composite. Laminates don't sound like real wood either.

Hardwoods are nature's most prolific and renewable resource. Humans have enjoyed their natural beauty for thousands of years. Hardwoods are found used in furniture, hand railings, flooring, stairs and many other applications.

Below are the most common hardwoods used in the flooring industry

	Bamboo Flooring: Bamboo grows incredibly fast (up to 3 feet per day) making it the "greenest" of all floor coverings. Bamboo isn't a hardwood it's a member of the grasses, and is cultivated in Asia, the Philippines and Indonesia. Hard and rugged, Bamboo flooring has it's own distinctive "Look and Feel". Great for heavily trafficked floors

	Natural Cork Flooring: Cork flooring is a renewable resource that comes from Cork Trees that grow in the poor, sandy soils in Spain, Portugal and countries located on and around the Mediterranean Sea. Only the bark is harvested leaving the tree itself unharmed. Every 9 to 11 years the bark of the Cork Tree is removed and processed into many different items such as cork flooring, shoes, stoppers, soundproofing and many more applications. Cork flooring is great for bathrooms, kitchens and spas due to it's moisture resistance and resilient nature.

	Red Oak: The most popular hardwood for strip flooring. The red oak is a large, handsome tree that grows quickly and is extremely hardy, making it an exceptional value for hardwood flooring. The red oak is common in the eastern part of the United States and is the State tree of New Jersey. For centuries the oak has been equated with sturdiness and strength, and with over 275 known species it's found over a wide geographic area.

	Maple: One of people’s favorite trees is the maple and is mentioned more often than any other. Maple trees grace the lawns of thousands of homes in the US and provide delicious maple syrup from trees in the spring.

	Cherry: Cherry is extremely beautiful and is used in the most sought after furniture. Cherry wood flooring is rich in color and can complement just about any decor with it's remarkable grain and textures.

	Ash: Sixteen species of Ash are common to the United States. The ash is a durable, fast growing tree with an extremely strong and stiff wood. Due to its features, ash wood has been fashioned into oars and paddles, as well as shovel, rake and hoe handles. Flooring manufacturers have taken advantage of its characteristics and created an extremely stable and handsome product.

	Walnut: Walnut is an extremely valuable wood with beautiful grain patterns. The finest furniture has been crafted from walnut because of its beauty and extreme hardiness. Needless to say, walnut is expensive. It can, however, be an invaluable investment for a richly decorated and inviting law library

Choosing & Applying Stain

Staining and finishing are the culminating steps that really show all the wood's character. This is where our expertise in selecting the right stains and doing the job is truly unparalleled.

Applying Finish

Applying finish is where you can easily see the high quality of our workmanship. We take extreme care to avoid drips and thick overlaps of finish, to cover all surfaces evenly, blend in brush marks - best done with lamb's wool - etc. We also take great care to keep loose fibers and dust of any kind out of the finished coat.

Surface finishes form a protective coating over the wood, are durable and require minimal maintenance. They generally come in different sheens of high-gloss, semi-gloss, satin, and matte.

Oil Base Polyurethane is by far the most popular. Professional grade oil based finishes hold color longer and give the ultimate protection. This type of finish ambers with age. Drying time is 8 - 24 hrs.

Water Base Polyurethane. For the lightest possible color contrast, minimal curing odor, and fastest drying time, water base is the way to go. This is a clear, non-yellowing finish, but is typically more expensive. Drying time 3 - 6 hrs.